Coca leaves

Once again, back a number of months... to October, when we were travelling around Peru. I have already covered our adventures overlanding in Northern Peru, now it's time for the south. For us, as for many others, the highlight of this section of our travels was the Inca Trail, the famous 45 km walk that terminates at the ruins of Machu Picchu. But let's proceed in order. The gateway to the trail is the magnificent city of Cuzco, twice capital of Peru; of the Inca empire first, and centre of Spanish colonization afterwards. It truly is beautiful; although the Spanish destroyed most Inca buildings it is still possible to see remnants of walls, intermingled with the beautiful Baroque architecture. It is a city of stunning plazas, panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, imponent churches hiding colonial treasures.





However, as all beautiful places, Cuzco has long since fallen pray to mass tourism. Children and old ladies in traditional costumes holding baby llamas wander around offering 'a picture for 5 soles', hawkers promote restaurants and guesthouses, mass produced souvenirs are found at every street corner. And as the light fades Cuzco becomes a haven for sweaty backpackers guzzling overpriced Cusquena and dancing cheesy pop tunes. I have met people who spent a week or more in Cuzco and saw absolutely nothing, enjoying instead the internet cafes and ubiquitous cafes serving Western food. Each to his own.



But let's start walking. I was looking forward ti the Inca trail, but with apprehension. I wondered if I was going to make it. The trail is 45 km long, with an average altitude aroud 3000 m and a highest point of 4200. I had no experience trekking at altitude and didn't know how I was going to cope. After the mandatory pictures at the start of the trail, we took off. Day 1 is easy enough; 11 km of mostly flat terrain, with a few ups and downs. It is known as the 'introduction day', the trail snakes through the mountains allowing views of valleys and ruins, all in a calm, Sunday-stroll fashion. The general mood around the campsite was 'is that all?'; little did we know what was going to come.



Day 2 is 'suffering day', with a good reason. In the space of 5 km the elevation goes from 3000 to 4200 m. There is only one way to put it; the trail goes up, up and up some more. I was soon gasping for breath, finding myself unable to enjoy the walk. All I was thinking of was reaching Dead Woman's Pass, the highest point. I started chewing coca leaves using the catalyser known as 'black cheese', which enhances the effect. Each lot would allow me to breathe freely and gave me a boost of energy. Coca leaves do not produce a 'high', the main side effect is numbness of the gums and mouth. I kept chewing, despite the numbness; however, when it reached my chest, I stopped and handed my leaves to the nearest porter. By then I could see the pass, it looked like a mirage. It looked close, but as I advanced the pass seemed to remain always at the same distance. And the trail kept snaking up. At the final ascent to the pass I had to stop approximately every 10 steps. But once we reached Dead Woman's Pass I was proud of myself for making it. There was no great views, only a bone-chilling wind and clouds rolling in and out of the pass. The was back down to the campsite was like a walk in the park after the ascent.



After the huge workout, everybody was looking forward to day 3, when the views of Inca ruins and the cloud forest are at their best. The trail for the day started with a 2 km climb, followed by a further 14 km of easy, panoramic hiking. As we woke up, we had the first bad surprise; it was pouring. I found climbing under the chilling rain even harder than the ascent to Dead Woman's Pass. The rain kept falling, down my neck and back, sending chills down my spine. I was in a frustrated state of mind, I just wanted everything to be over. I was hating every minute of it; the ruins just seemed like piles of rubble, and the stormy clouds were blocking the view. After 2-3 hours we got some respite from the rain and were able to complete the day enjoing some views and sunshine. The day, though, was all but ruined for me.







So far, I would've lied if I said I enjoyed the experience. As a matter of fact, I hated it. The last day was just about to change my opinion completely. The group raised at 3 am to be the first going through the checkpoint, with the aim of being the first at Sun Gate, the viewpoint where it's possible to catch the first glimpse of Machu Picchu. We were indeed the first, and at opening time we all sprinted through. Some people pushed and shoved those who walked slower, I just concentrated on walking as quickly as possible. I wanted to arrive at Sun Gate before the masses, to have a minute of peace to take in my first glance of Machu Picchu. I did the 6 km to the Sun Gate in just over half an hour. Once again I gasped for breath, but I did not give up. At Sun Gate one of the most amazing sights of my life unfolded before my eyes. I saw Machu Picchu, nestled through the mountains, bathed in the early morning light. The rocks of the building seemed to complete the mountains, a sight so familiar yet so breathtaking when you actually stand by it. It was my highest moment, when the beauty just filled me completely I broke into tears. I had about 15 minutes before the hordes came and I just sat there, gazing at the valley. It was a truly beautiful moment, unspoilt by the masses of people that were already making their way to the ruins below.



Afterwards we toured Machu Picchu. The site was impressive, although for me nothing could give me the same thrill I experienced when I first saw it. We wandered around, I felt like I was walking in a dream. I was exhausted yet excited. I do not remember much of the visit, though. What remained with me was the first glance from the Sun Gate.