Baked tilapia in banana leaves

As the middle of September came we got ready to start the second part of our South American adventure: overlanding from Quito to Santiago. Not many people knew; I was rather ashamed of ruining my image of fearless traveller by signing up to a semi-organized trip. We decided to go overlanding because Nick did it in the past and loved it. I was not keen on overlanding originally; I expected to find myself in a truck full of 18 to 21-year-olds, interested only in getting drunk and 'ticking boxes'. Those people I call 'shopping list travellers', who quickly move from country to country to see the main sights and boast to their friends back home 'I did 56 countries'; as travelling in this way was some sort of life-enriching experience. Whatever. I approached the meeting room of a dingy Quito hotel still clutching my laundry and feeling rather concerned. Would I enjoy two months between Ecuador and Chile if my travel companions were not of my liking?

I felt relieved as soon as I saw the crowd. First of all, the mean age of the group was higher than I expected. Also, talking to some during the rest of the evening I discovered that they weere more similar to me than I thought they would be. So, why people go overlanding? Overlanding is a way of travelling that ranges somewhere between independent and organised trip. The fees paid cover accommodation and transport, plus some meals and activities. Accommodation is usually camping or basic hotels, transport is on a purpose-built truck. In my opinion, people choose overlanding for two main reasons; ease of transportation and desire to meet new people. The appeal lies in the fact that overlanders are usually young, between 20 and 40 years of age; many are singles. Overlanding allows freedom, far from the constrictons of an all-inclusive trip. So far so good, I thought, after meeting the 16 people I was going to live with for the next 2 months.

After two days visiting the Otavalo market and Papallacta hot springs, we headed back into the Amazon. As we got to the lodge, us and another couple who visited the Amazon previously were really disappointed. There was no need to spend hours on a canoe or the back of a truck, the lodge was only one hour plus a short trip downriver from the nearest town. The forest was what disappointed us the most. There was no thich blanket of vegetation such as the one we found in Shiripuno, no feeling to be nested in the heart of nature. It felt more like a house in the country. I felt the place was chosen to allow overlanders to tick 'Amazon' off their list.

My first opinion wasn't entirely right. Yes, the lodge was only 1 hour from Tena. Yes, it was secondary rather than primary rainforest, suggesting that a certain degree of deforestation had taken place. Yes, the owner Tom said tht we were unlikely to see any wildlife. However, the place was beautiful. The lodge and cabins were entirely built in wood, unlike Shiripuno where cabins were open on the sides. The whole lodge was solar-powered, and was promoting a programme of environmental awareness with the local communities. The first target was educating indigenous communities to stop dynamite-fishing. The owner, Tom, was a middle-aged American who fell in love with Ecuador and decided to call this place home. He was extremely concerned with the environment, having built three dams to restore endangered river wildlife such as piranha and turtles. And Mona, Tom's pet Wooli monkey, was our mascot throughout our stay.

Tom was a really interesting character. I always appreciate the company of people who decide to change at some point in their lives. Might be moving somewhere exotic, travelling or changing careers, I like people who are not afraid. Unfortunately, many friends of mine are stuck in a suburban pay-the-mortgage lifestyle. Many want to travel but think it's too late for them, with the car and the house and the kids and the bills. Why not, I say. Why limiting your possibilities to the first job you get, or the first place you move to. Why thinking that once you start life down a certain path, you can't change it. I travel because I don't know where I want to leave or what I want to do. I write to give a voice to my thoughts. I may be wrong, but now I'm happy.

Days were spent lazying on the lodge, playing cards, tubing down the river and visiting the forest. Although we didn't see much in terms of wildlife, it was a good time to relax and bond with the newly-formed group. Mona kept frolicking around us, teasing the boys to play with her and refusing to play with the girls. The food was out of this world, perhaps the best during our stay in South America. What will remain in my heart was a fantastic baked tilapia in banana leaves, with banana flower and rice. It was delicious. Two days into our overland trip, I had already dropped the prejudices I had about overlanding, and I was sure I was going to have a great time.