Picanha and Coriander Chutney

After bidding farewell to our friends Kelvin and Marcelo in Sao Paulo we headed towards Foz do Iguazu, which was to be our last stop in Brazil. The area is famous because of the majestic Iguazu waterfalls, which span at the border between Brazil and Argentina. We decided to visit the Brazilian side first, then cross to Argentina where we had planned to meet with my family, and visit the Argentinean side. We arrived in Foz with a few days to kill. We were both looking forward to seeng the waterfalls, however no photo, film or travel tale can convey the magic of standing in front of the waterfalls.

We were also lucky enough to find great accommodation on both sides of the border. In Brazil we stayed at Hostal Natura, a hostel-campsite situated on a family-run farm. Luckily we had a room, as the weather in Southern Brazil was much colder compared to the Northeast (after all, we were in the Southern Winter). The son, Anwar, was running the bar, offering killer caipirinhas for 7 reais a pop. Not the same as in Jeri, though... there's something about an icy-cold cocktail that goes hand in hand with sun and beach. And the weather in Iguazu was more British than Brazilian, especially in the evening. The mother Alda was preparing breakfast and dinner for all guests. The food was absolutely delicious, homely and comforting. And abundant! I could not believe it, we had pizza for breakfast. And for dinner on our very last night in Brazil we had barbecued picanha, the Brazilian cut of meat famous throughout the world. A nice last meal for two meat-lovers such as ourselves.

The falls are absolutely outstanding. Carlos, that interesting man we met on the Rio Preguica, considered them the best natural wonder of Brazil. I couldn't quite see how it could beat Lencois Maranhenses, but I wouldn't wage judgement bedore I'd seen the falls. The Brazilian side offers the grand overview, the postcard image of the falls. Walking down to the first viewing platform I couldn't believe my eyes. There's something about waterfalls; the spray, the noise and the power of the water, creating something that can be beautiful but deadly at the same time. Iguazu are a collection of falls, one more breathtaking than the other. On a sunny day, rainbows play peekaboo behind the mist, butterflies and birds dance around almost entrancing those who are lucky enough to be part of this natural wonder. The falls became bigger, stronger and more spectacular the further we advenced on the track; until the last one, la Garganta del Diablo,
(The Devil's Throat) whose strength is such that it can only be appreciated from the platform on the Argentinean side. Otherwise, the mist is so thick it hides the waterfall beneath a cloud.

The sadness of having left Brazil faded quickly once we entered the national park on the Argentinean side. Argentina offers a closer view, with walking tracks which allow the visitor to walk either the top or the bottom of the waterfalls. Doing this is possibly even more spectacular than visiting the Brazilian side; the strength of the water is breathtaking, the wildlife more abundant. We were able to see caimans, river turtles, monkeys and tucans; the first real wildlife of the whole trip. But the Garganta is what really steals the show. Standing on top of it is scary and mesmerising at the same time. The water roars down so powerfully that it's impossible to see where it crashes down into the river. We stood there for a good 15 minutes, trying to take it all in. Unfortunately, no piture or blogspot will ever be good enough.

Our B&B in Puerto Iguazu was also excellent. As we met with my parents there, we were lucky to be able to enjoy a higher level of comfort as long as my family was with us. Secret Garden B&B keeps the promise that lies in its name; it really is secret! We asked and asked and it took us a good half hour to find it. Once again, the host is what makes the place special. John was born in India, but has been living in Argentina for about 30 years. Not only was he extremely kind and personable, also he took each guest's needs to his heart. John organised a 'happy hour' every evening, where he served caipirinha accompanied by a variety of nibbles. The one I enjoyed the most was flatbread accompanied by a zingy coriander chutney. What a better way to wind down after a day of sightseeing. Argentina looked rather promising from the very first day. And much more was yet to come.